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フランスツアー。Verdon渓谷

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ここはヨーロッパ最大の渓谷で、かなり古くからクライミングが行われていたエリアです。

なんと言ってもここの魅力はそのスケールの大きさで、200m~300mにスッパリ切れ落ちた石灰岩の渓谷はとても美しく、でもクライマーにはかなり威圧的です。アプローチは崖の上から谷底へ懸垂下降数ピッチで取り付くものが多く、登り返していく形です。基本的には降りて、登ってこれなければ帰れません。(敗退が不可能ではないですが、相当苦労します。)

しかし、ここに来るフリークライマーは、他のエリアでは当たり前に見かけるようになってしまった、長いクリップ棒を誰一人持っていませんでした。怖いルートも多々ありますが…、勇気を持って空身で降りて、自分の力で登りきる。それができるか不安な人はガイドを雇っていました。これは、とても良い事だと思います。

Verdonでのクライミングは、フリーでも冒険的要素が強く、面倒な事も多いですが、単なるスポーツにとどまらない魅力があります。

やり残した課題もあり、また行きたい、とても良いエリアです。

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豊田の岩場

2013年2月4日

先日ひさしぶりに愛知県豊田市の松平郷周辺の岩場に登りにいってきました。豊田の岩場はクライミングを始めたころから登っている馴染みのある岩場です。東海環状自動車道や新名神が開通したことによって、至近の豊田松平インターへのアクセスが非常に便利になったので大阪方面からも行き易くなりました。ちょうどこの季節は他の岩場は寒すぎても、場所を選べばとても日当たりのよい快適なエリアに恵まれているのでお勧め。今回も比較的暖かいエリアを選んで移動して朝から暗くなるまでしっかり登って指皮持ってかれました!

さて、僕がクライミングを始めた当時は秋冬のシーズンでもそんなに多くのクライマーはいませんでしたが、近頃はクライマー人口が増加しているのもあってか毎週末、駐車場はオーバーユース状態。地元住民の間でクライマーの駐車マナーが問題になっていないか不安に感じるほどです。そこで、周辺の駐車場など知っていることを抜粋してまとめましたので豊田の岩場を利用する際には参考にしてください。

より大きな地図で 豊田クライミングマップ を表示

豊田の窓口となる古美山エリアは特に駐車マナーが酷くなっています。古美山の駐車場がいっぱいの場合には他のエリアに移動するなど、周辺住民に配慮して路上駐車などは絶対に避けてください。その他エリアにおいても路上駐車は極力避け、駐車場がなく路上駐車しかできないエリアにおいても、道路や農道・農地への入り口を完全に塞いでしまったり、転回不可能になるような駐車は絶対にしないでください。

関連:
JFA-NEWS | 岩場周辺でのマナーの再確認を

2013年2月15日 追記:
現在天下峯において伐採作業が行われており、当該エリアは平日及び土曜日は作業の妨げになるため登攀できません。
日曜日のみ作業を行わないそうですので登攀可能ですが、作業のマーカーなど間違っても失ったりしないよう注意してください。


2012 ヨーロッパツアー

2012年12月9日

今年の9月2日に始まったスペイン&フランスツアーから12月4日に戻りました。
帰国から何日か経って何か纏めようと考えるのですが上手く文章に出来ません。思ったままを兎に角書いてみます。

最初にスペインのロデジャーからツアーは始まったのですが、正直なところ、2回目のツアーだというのに何故か上手く調子を上げていけませんでした。ここでの目標としていた3本の8cの内、1本しか登ることができず「このままではロデジャーでの1か月間が要領を得ないまま終わってしまう。」と思い、移動の3日前に慌てて気持ちをレッドポイントからシフトしてトポ上では8bとなっている2本をオンサイトすることが出来ました。しかしこの2本も体感では、1本は易しめの8a+、もう一本も8a+/bに感じ、自分の納得のできる登りは出来ないままフランスに移動になりました。

フランスはゴルジュ・デ・ルーではロデジャーの巻き返しを!と思い息巻いて臨みましたが、8aのオンサイトすら容易くは無いフランスの洗礼を受け、ここでは息巻く気持ちを落ち着け、冷静に1本ずつ確実に落としていく事にしました。それでも全く歯が立たない8cがあったり、15回以上トライして登りきれなかった8bがあったりと、非常に手痛い洗礼でした。辛うじて8cのRPと8a+のOSはキープしましたが、「ツアーで来てフランスで登れるヤツは本物だ。」と思わせるほどにフランスの岩場は厳しいものでした。
La Fabela pa la Enmienda, 9a in Santa Linya最後に訪れたサンタ・リーニャは幸運でした。フランスでコテンパンにやられたお陰か、そこで培ったRP感が役立ったのか、自分に適していた長めの持久系ルートを着実に落とすことができ、いつの間にか9aに挑戦できるようになっていました。しかし岩の染み出しと天候の不順が、簡単には登らせてくれませんでした。ムーブは完璧に出来上がっているのに、1箇所、2箇所の染み出しの為だけに何度も何度も落とされ続けました。状態の回復を待つ間に他のルートをトライすることも考えましたが、刻一刻と迫る帰国日を前に「もう、これを登るしかない。」と決めた2日後。クライミング日程最終日の前日に、季節が秋から冬へと変わり、岩の状態が劇的に良くなりました。こうなるともう何も難しい箇所はなく、余裕をもって完登するに至りました。素直にうれしかった。

La Fabela pa la Enmienda, 9a in Santa Linya空知の時もそうでしたが”9″を冠するルートのトライには何かしらの苦痛が伴う。僕の場合は天候がいつも絡んできて、問題がこの天候にあるのか自分の未熟さにあるのかを不明瞭にして、100万回トライの迷路に連れ込んでしまう。”9″という餌を前にしてRPへの冷静な判断力を失ってしまう。

今回のツアーで感じたのは、それでも追い詰められたら結構できるという事と、そこまで追い詰められてしまう弱さと未熟さです。
ツアーのひとつの目標だった8b+のオンサイトには遠く及びませんでしたが、もうひとつの目標である8c+のRPは、9aのRPという形で目標以上の結果を上げることが出来ました。

本当に感謝しています。

(※ツアーの集計は後日、プロフィールページに纏めます。)
La Fabela pa la Enmienda, 9a in Santa Linya


2012年スペインツアー終了

2012年12月2日

今年は目標が”Era bella”9aだったので、それは登ることができました。

それは本当に僕には難しく嬉しかったです!!

だけど、2本目に挑戦した”Open your mind direct”9aは登ることができませんでした。

今回のツアーのテーマは”挑戦”なので、ロング系が登れたら次はボルダーチックなルートを登ってみたかったんですけど、コテンパンにやられちゃいました。

しかし、登れなかった課題からの方が”がんばるぞ~”っという闘志が湧いてくるので、この感覚を大事にします!

さあ~!

また春に向けさらなる飛躍だ!!

正田 信一


“Fabela pa la Enmienda” 完成!

2012年11月30日

今日、日程残り1日にして、”Fabela pa la Enmienda” 登りました!トライしていた”Fabela” 8c+は登って、その後エクステンションラインの、このラインをトライしていました。染み出しに悩まされて今日の今日まで弾かれまくりましたが、天候が急激に良くなった今日、登りきることが出来ました。はじめての9aです。手短ですが報告だけ。詳細はまた書きます。


残りわずか!!

2012年11月20日

マルガレフからサンタリーニャに移動して新しい目標ができました。
それは、”Open your mind direct”というラインです。Open Your Mind Direct, 9a in Santa Linya“Era bella”とは正反対のルートで25メートル、ムーヴが難しいです。
下部はクリップ有りで4段くらい、上部はモノホールドが3回でてきてかっこいいです!!
ラインもよく、グレードも”9a”でnameにも惹かれました。
ぼくは”開眼”だととらえています。
残り10日間はこのラインにチャレンジ、チャレンジ!!